Kalymnos Mid-Way
- Jun 11, 2016
- 3 min read
Taking rest days might be the hardest thing to do for a climber. Whether you like them or not, you definitely need them. On Kalymnos, these days are even more difficult. No matter where you go, you pass by crag after crag of potential climbing fun. But even if your mind is willing, the only cure for the painful swelling in your fingertips is to relax and watch the day go by.

Castle of Hora
There are a few things to do on the island that do not involve climbing. Geniey and I went to the Castle of Hora and explored the ruins. The castle was built in the 13th century and was inhabited until the 18th century. All that’s left are the ruined walls and a few preserved churches. The churches are so tiny that if more than 6 people were inside, you would feel cramped. The drive up to the castle is short but exciting as the scooter just narrowly fits through the thin European alleyways. But even from the top of the castle, if you look East, you can see a beautiful red rock crag. Climbing is definitely everywhere here.

Castle of Hora
Luckily most days we have been able to spend on the rocks. The weather has been pretty good, only a night of rain which dried up quickly. So far we’ve been able to visit a new crag every day, haven’t started any long term projects yet. We’ve climbed slabs, overhangs, pumpy routes, technical routes, routes with tufas and stalactites, taken big falls and had our share of joyous sends. We’ve climbed 5 C’s to 7A+’s and every route seems to have a bit of magic on it. Some of our favorites have been Nymph (7A), (Kalydna 7a), Nickel (7A+), 3 Ilots (6C), Pic Pic (6B), Y Viva Pancho Villa (7A), and Posiedon (6C), just to name a few.

Climbing hard at Spartacus Wall
Nymph is a 7a pump fest at Eros crag (Telendos). Large holds on an overhang, it has some good rests and fun moves between pockets. Pic Pic at Ghost kitchen was a surprisingly wonderful slab climb. Normally I will do anything to stay away from slab, but the moves on this route were wonderful, and technical with perfect flow. A definite must if you visit Ghost Kitchen. Then there are the famous 3d routes which is the best part of limestone sport climbing. On Y Viva Pancho you start out of a powerful, overhung single tufa, which you climb up until you can bridge out to a massive stalactite. Wonderful, powerful, and pumpy fun.

Getting a nifty rest on Dafni 6C+ at Ghost Kitchen
We’ve also met some incredible people. On the first day here we shared a cab with a wonderful couple from Colorado who we spent most of the first couple weeks with, but sadly they had to leave. We have also seen retired Brits send climbs up to 7a+ and a fellow with no fingers on one of his hands. We’ve met people from every continent (maybe except Antarctica) and have heard (probably) every European language. One of the hardest parts about travelling though is constantly making new friends. Every day, people are coming, and people are leaving. It’s just the way things go. Geniey and I are always hunting for new friends. She weighs 70 lb’s less than me so if she belays me, she wears her pack which we fill with rocks. It’s just easier to have a heavier person belay me.

Mike, Shayna, Geniey, and myself after a day of climbing.
We are continuing our adventure here and have a couple more weeks. We are hoping to see more crags, climb more rocks, and create some amazing friendships.
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